When Will and I received our visas at the Myanmar embassy in Bangkok, I was taken aside and instructed to “avoid confusion,” and “take care to understand our Myanmar culture,” along with other various other euphemisms for not trying to contact any political prisoners or conduct any journalistic activities. I had assumed there to be a 50 percent possibility that we would not get any visas at all; perhaps an official had seen one of my Myanmar-related pieces in the LA Times or Reason, or perhaps something I had done during my last months living in Burma had led to my blacklisting. But we got our visas, and our warning, and booked our flight to Yangon.
Why we had to fly to Myanmar to find out that I was blacklisted is still something of a mystery. As we were being processed in Yangon, an immigration official typed my passport number into a very, very old computer. Something popped up on her screen. Without a word to me, she called someone over, who summoned someone else, and I watched my passport bounce from hand to hand to hand. There was much furious flipping of the passport pages, much high-pitched Burmese chatter. We were waiting for some still-higher official to call the airport. Will was granted admission and an entry stamp without a problem. When the call came, someone stamped “void” over the still-wet ink on his passport. And we were flown straight back to Bangkok.
I had known that in writing about Myanmar from time to time I was risking being banned from the place–my favorite place–for the rest of my life. But in truth I’d always considered myself too unimportant to garner notice. Does the dictatorship really read the Saturday LA Times? It’s not hard to Google potential visitors, but given the backwardness and incompetence I’d witnessed during my years in Burma, I had doubted that the immigration authorities were familiar with the concept of a search engine. The people I know who are banned are generally quite high up in some organization the junta considers threatening. Lowly freelance journalists slip through all the time, so long as they’re bright enough not to write “freelance journalist” on their visa applications.
Academics and journalists dealing with restrictive governments are used to dealing with this sort of thing. The Far Eastern Economic Review (I think) had a piece a while back about the timidity of Western academics in writing about China; your typical professor of Chinese studies doesn’t want to risk being denied entry to her country of expertise.
There is a tendency among those of us who value freedom of speech to believe that the virtuous thing to do is to speak out, access be damned. I don’t know that that is always the right impulse. I don’t know that I did the right thing in trading access to people trapped in Burma for a few opinion pieces critiquing vapid Western media coverage of the country. The world does not need another American reporter declaring the junta barbaric and incompetent, a position for which there is almost no opposition in the United States. Indeed, those intent on raising awareness have done harm by encouraging both economic sanctions and hardliners within the junta. I have never understood how American “awareness” of the Myanmar situation was supposed to help the Burmese trishaw driver surviving on two meals a day.
There is one young woman in Myanmar who continues to write me from time to time, thanking me for the time I spent coaching her toward competent journalism. I spent months teaching her how to structure a piece, a skill that does not come at all naturally to people raised in countries without an independent journalistic tradition. Surely helping her shape a single article was more important than any Burma-related op-ed I’ve written. And yet I’ve traded the right to go back–to have influence over individual lives–for the right to spill some ink. I am a journalist by nature, and it’s possible that I would do it all over again. But there is at least an argument to be made for playing by the rules of a paranoid military dictatorship to maintain access to the lives inside.
I hope anyone reading this, and considering a trip to Southeast Asia in the future, will drop in on Myanmar for a week or so. Most people will have no problem getting a visa in DC, New York, or Bangkok. Stay at a small, privately owned hotel, drop some cash on restaurants and lacquerware, spend a couple of days marveling over Bagan. The country is more than its government.